Re: Tee nuts for interior side of hardware fasteners...

[m_kanzler@d9jcvtM9QglmomNWPcIGSTYfElZbMj_VcvqMeqRRnX0TE1e_40libOs1_GYxz6DPAl8Gorxt7w2UaA.yahoo.invalid]

You might be able to put a fender washer on the tee nut.

Could use a forstner bit to make a shallow counterbore,
glue the fender washer in place w/ 3M 5200, then glue
in the tee nut.

Maybe even use holes in tee nut to pop rivet to
a backing plate or fender washers, then install
as an assembly.

Solid rivets are even better because you can double-
flush countersink them and shave the head and upset
ends to make a smooth assembly... but it takes a few
tools to do this.




--- In SJ-24@yahoogroups.com, "Graeme Jannaway" <graeme.jannaway@u...>
wrote:
> 
> I'll look into it further and see if they have any with larger bases.
>  The ones he showed me had 3/4" to 1" bases, depending on thread size,
> which I figured wasn't too far off the size of washer that I've been
> using under the handrails, sheet tracks, etc.  I'd still use aluminium
> (or SS) plates under the winches and cleats but drill the holes
> oversized to fit the T-nuts.
> 
> Graeme Jannaway
> Matta II #308
> --- In SJ-24@yahoogroups.com, "pjacobs55" <prjacobs@t...> wrote:
> > 
> > Graeme: I like the T-nut idea. The only downside I can see is that 
> > you can't back up the hardware with a nice big fender washer or 
> > aluminum plate. But it would work great with smaller hardware.
> > 
> > Peter
> > SJ24 #178 'Adios'
> > 
> > 
> > --- In SJ-24@yahoogroups.com, "Graeme Jannaway" 
> > <graeme.jannaway@u...> wrote:
> > > 
> > > Curious, has anyone considered replacing the acorn nuts for the deck
> > > hardware with T-nuts?  
> > > 
> > > My local fiberglass place has SS T-nuts, that I could mount nearly
> > > flush with headliner, since the nut part extends up into the 
> > laminate.
> > >  These T-nuts are built for fiberglass, so they have holes for epoxy
> > > to ooze through, rather than the spikes that are on T-nuts for 
> > wood. 
> > > I'd have to redrill the bottom 1/2" of each hole and cut off all of
> > > the bolts, so that they don't protrude, but I think my much bumped 
> > and
> > > occasionally bloodied scalp would appreciate it.
> > > 
> > > Graeme Jannaway
> > > Matta II #308
> > > 
> > > 
> > > --- In SJ-24@yahoogroups.com, "pjacobs55" <prjacobs@t...> wrote:
> > > > 
> > > > Marc: Did you use that to replace the existing 'carpet' side 
> > panels, 
> > > > or did you do the whole interior, ceiling and all?
> > > > 
> > > > Thanks!
> > > > 
> > > > Peter
> > > > SJ24 #178 'Adios'
> > > > 
> > > > --- In SJ-24@yahoogroups.com, "Marc Marschark" <memrtl@n...> 
> > wrote:
> > > > > I used a mildew-resistent fabric made by Concept Fabrics in 
> > > > Ashboro, NC. Attached it with silicone. It's fantastic. Comes in 
> > > > about 30 colors, heavy-duty, easy to work with.
> > > > > 
> > > > >  
> > > > > 
> > > > > Marc
> > > > > 
> > > > > Zafu(#29) 
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > > > I'm looking at my interior liner, with all it's filled holes, 
> > > > stains,
> > > > > and general wear and tear, and am wondering what I can paint it 
> > with
> > > > > that will hide as much as possible. I've filled all the holes 
> > and
> > > > > sanded it, and I'm thinking of a not too glossy paint that will 
> > roll
> > > > > on with a bit of texture to look decent.
> > > > > 
> > > > > Has anyone experience in this area? Any and all input welcome!
> > > > > 
> > > > > Peter.
> > > > > SJ24 #178 'Adios'
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
> > > > > 
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